This relic from the past is now a symbolic, egalitarian space. Everyone eats here. In the shadow of the menu board, the nostalgic interior is a literal illustration of communal dining—tablecloths sticking just as much as fingers do from the berries oozing out of soft dumplings, while the aromas wrap around the guests like a childhood embrace.
If you’re wondering where the best milk bars in Kraków are, where to get the best cold beet soup (Polish chlodnik), and where to find cheese & potato dumplings (ruskie), which milk bar is the prettiest, and which one is the cheapest, then you’re in the right place! Join me for a virtual tour of Kraków’s milk bars, then and now.
Dusty curtains and nostalgic menu boards, tablecloths sticky from sweet dumplings, and the timeless Społem mugs with blue stripes. All of this creates an extraordinarily symbolic space that appeals not just to the taste buds but also to the imagination.
The institution of milk bars is incredibly interesting for any foodie. Interestingly, the name comes from the menu, which was mainly based on vegetarian dishes: dairy and flour-based items. Milk bars gained the most popularity in Poland shortly after World War II and during the communist era, when they started popping up all over Polish streets as an alternative to workplace cafeterias.
Interestingly, milk bars didn't actually originate during the The Polish People's Republic era. The first milk bar in Poland already existed in the previous century, opened by Stanisław Dłużewski in 1896 on Nowy Świat Street in Warsaw. At the Mleczarnia Nadświdrzańska, they served vegetarian dishes based on milk, butter, flour, and eggs (Dłużewski was a farmer and a big cow breeder). During the interwar period, bars serving various dairy product variations gained popularity mainly due to the economic crisis – you could eat cheaply there because ministerial regulations controlled not only the size and ingredients of the dishes but also their prices. So it’s no wonder that in the face of crisis and poverty, places where you could eat so affordably quickly became incredibly popular and crowded.
The peak popularity of milk bars in Poland was during the People's Republic era. They were modeled after the pre-war dairies and served as a sort of alternative to workers' dining halls, quickly spreading throughout the country. Most of the bars at that time belonged to the Społem Consumers' Cooperative. They served dishes based on flour, eggs, and groats. In a meatless menu (as meat was hard to come by, especially in cities), cheap and quick meals like dumplings, knedle, or pyzy ruled the roost. The aforementioned dumplings, egg and flour dishes, egg patties, pancakes, lazy dumplings, soups, groats, and nearly everything that could be made from eggs and flour were typically served through a special window. Breakfasts (scrambled eggs, a bread roll, cocoa) and desserts (jelly or pudding) were also dairy and vegetarian. The dishes were mostly boiled and rarely fried, and instead of fresh vegetables, they offered salads and cooked veggies. To drink, they served compote or tea.
Since milk bars, compared to restaurants, had quite limited space, at the first bars you couldn't... sit down! The places were small and designed to quickly and efficiently serve as many hungry customers as possible. Customers, on their breaks from work or school, didn’t have much time for a meal either, so they ended up eating at bar tables, but without the bar stools. Standing tables were simply cheaper, and since the bars were state-funded, no one really cared about customer comfort. In Poland back then, it was actually quite common to eat and drink at standing bars.
Moreover, milk bars, due to their low prices and popularity, significantly relieved women at home and somewhat freed them from their tedious kitchen drudgery.
Today, these egalitarian temples of gluten and dairy are still hugely popular, mainly because of their low prices and tasty, simple meals. Some have gone into private hands, while others are still subsidized and supported by the state, but even the underfunded ones nod to the traditions of the People's Republic of Poland with their decor, prices, and menus.
In this post, I’ve got a few of the best milk bars in Kraków that I’ve tried out for you.
The first milk bar in Krakow (and the first in Poland), aptly named Pionier, opened in 1948. The following bars didn't have names, just numbers, which were not assigned in any logical order. Five years later, in 1953, there were already 8 milk bars in Krakow.
Today's bars are not just relics of the past. They still proudly uphold the tradition of affordable meals, even though you can mostly pay with a card now. The menus feature plenty of meat dishes, and next to the salads in the fridges, you often find soft drinks like Coke or Pepsi. However, culinary trends don’t really touch these places, which faithfully stand guard over tradition and are a bastion of Polish home-cooked and traditional cuisine.
A true gem in the crown of fast collective dining in Krakow. In Nowa Huta, the milk bars are taken so seriously that there are still two genuine milk bars in operation: Bar Mleczny Centralny and Bar Mleczny Północny at the Osiedle Teatralne. Thanks to state subsidies, the prices are surprisingly low for 2024. Tomato soup with dumplings: 4.04 PLN, sour rye soup with an egg: 5.57 PLN, pea soup: 3.36 PLN, lazy pierogi (in Polish leniwe, with dough made of flour and cottage cheese): 7.72 PLN, cheese & potatoes pierogi (ruskie): 8.15 PLN, potato pancakes with sour cream: 5.16 PLN, minced meat with potatoes and sautéed cabbage: 17.98 PLN, and strawberry pierogi with sour cream and sugar: 6.36 PLN. At the Central Bar managed by PSS Społem, the food is tasty and fresh, and the clientele is very diverse. The entrance is tucked away just around the corner from the Central Square, and the interior, despite its modest decor, makes a significant impression due to the height and a sort of monumentality of the space. The whole experience is completed by a classic menu on an old board and a characteristic window for serving food, through which white cups and plates with the blue Społem logo zip back and forth.
Address: Osiedle Centrum C
The most beautiful milk bar in Kraków. It has a cozy interior and definitely the best dumplings of all the milk bars in Kraków. The springy dough hides an intense, fluffy filling, all topped with a blanket of aromatic fried onions. The warm wood paneling, curtains, and plants will transport you back to the 80s. To top it off, the prices are very reasonable: cold beet soup: 10.60 PLN, cheese & potatoes pierogi (ruskie): 14.40 PLN, blueberry dumplings: 19.70 PLN, cabbage and noodle dish: 8.70 PLN, potato pancakes with goulash: 23.50 PLN, pork cutlet with potatoes and cabbage: 28.40 PLN. The service is incredibly efficient and friendly, and there are plenty of seats in the bar, so even during the busy lunch hour, you won't have to wait long for a meal and a table.
Address: Czarnowiejska Street 75
The classic spot I used to go to during college is still holding strong. Prices have changed a bit since then (unlike the tablecloths and napkins), but there's one new thing that’s popped up in this and many other bars: card payments. The food is really tasty, but the lines during lunch can get pretty long. Even though the service is efficient, this place remains super popular. There's always some kind of daily special that includes a soup, a main dish, and a compote for about 25 PLN. In summer, you can enjoy chilled beet soup and fruit pierogi, while in winter, they have delicious soups. For example, the prices are: Polish gnocchi (kopytka) with goulash: 17.80 PLN, sour rye soup with potatoes and egg: 7.80 PLN, beet soup with egg: 5.80 PLN, breaded chicken fillet: 12 PLN, cheese & potatoes pierogi: 12 PLN, broccoli patties: 12 PLN, cabbage rolls: 14.90 PLN.
Address: Limanowskiego Street 16
There's a small bar right by the market hall, shaded by old trees on Daszyńskiego, where very nice yet straightforward ladies in white aprons and caps serve home-cooked breakfasts and lunches. They shout out to let the customers know when meals are ready, and the clientele represents every layer of society in the country. Definitely make sure to stop by here in the summer for an excellent and refreshing cold soup. The timeless salt shakers and fake flowers (sometimes fresh single tulips decorate the tables in summer!) on the checkered napkins give the interior a vibe from the previous era, and the food is really tasty and fresh.
Address: Ignacego Daszyńskiego Street 19
Bar Południowy, one of the oldest milk bars in Kraków, has been operating in its new location at 4 Celna Street in Podgórze since 2020. After moving from Brodzińskiego Street, the bar has only a few tables, so expect a pretty long line during lunchtime, but those fruit dumplings are definitely worth the wait. The food is homemade and tasty, wrapping you in a feeling like carefree summers at your grandparents’ house in the countryside. Like in most milk bars, generations come together here, with older locals, students, and tourists enjoying their meals. Example prices: Russian dumplings: 8.80 PLN, cheese pancakes: 10.95 PLN, pork chop: 10.50 PLN.
Address: 4 Celna Street
A milk bar in the shadow of the Jubilat department store. Tasty food, classic bar lunches and breakfasts, decent portions, and fresh ingredients. The staff is really friendly, and the decor has a nostalgic vibe. There’s quite a bit of space in the bar, and the checkered tiles, old ceramic stove, and checkered tablecloths will take you back decades. Example prices: ruskie dumplings: 12.90 PLN, chicken fillet: 15.10 PLN, sautéed cabbage: 5.45 PLN, potatoes with butter: 4.90 PLN, Silesian dumplings with mushroom sauce: 10.45 PLN, tomato soup: 5.30 PLN.
Address: Tadeusz Kościuszko Street 1
It's kind of a diner but not exactly a milk bar. Officially, it doesn't operate as a state-subsidized milk bar and the prices are slightly higher (daily set around 30 PLN), but it has a similar vibe and aesthetic, and the food is just as tasty and still pretty affordable.
Address: Aleja Pokoju 33
A hidden place, without a big sign. Not exactly a typical milk bar, it's more like something between a milk bar and a traditional Polish cuisine restaurant. What sets this place apart is its unique atmosphere and beautiful interior. There's an abundance of plants, the singing of canaries, and old wooden dressers filled with items from a bygone era. It's perfect for fans of vintage and boho jungle vibes in the city center. A lunch set costs around 30 PLN.
Address: Plac Sikorskiego 1
Do you know any other tasty milk bars in Kraków? Do you visit them? Let us know on Instagram!
