From the airplane window, the beautiful and unique shape of the island is already visible. Green hills slope gently towards two bays, between which lie wide, golden beaches. The mountain trails, pineapple fields, and dramatic coastline don’t create the classic beauty of other Polynesian islands known for their paradise-like lagoons, blue waters, and golden sands. All of that is here, but it doesn’t take center stage, because Moorea has much more to offer.
It’s a fairly large island, with lush greenery that makes it feel more tangible, real, and grounded. Even when the sky over the island is cloudy, when the sun peeks through the clouds and bathes the mountainside homes in gentle light, I feel like I’m in a nature documentary, as the colors here are incredibly vibrant. As with any island, the weather here is rather unpredictable – in just half an hour, it can go from “grey, unpleasant drizzle that makes me want to jump on a plane back” to “unbelievable that this place exists.”
Of course, you’ll find paradise beaches here, but the island also stands out with its unique tropical vegetation, and the trek through dense hills rewards you with views over two bays. This raw gem of Polynesia also entices with humpback whales in the depths, blue lagoons for kayaking, pink sunsets, and delicious food. If magical mountains, swimming with sharks and rays, and tropical greenery aren’t enough, add in unique hotels, pineapple fields, coral reefs, and a whole range of sports to try.
Though Moorea is often underrated and treated as a gateway to postcard-perfect islands, it’s worth a longer stay as a truly unpolished diamond.
Moorea is an island in French Polynesia in the Pacific Ocean, located close to Tahiti.
To reach Moorea from Tahiti, you have two main options:
BY PLANE: Take Air Tahiti (direct flights) or AirMoana (direct or with a stop in Bora-Bora). A direct flight takes around 10-15 minutes and costs about 100-150 euros. For multiple islands, consider the Air Tahiti Multi-Islands Pass, which ranges from 500 to 800 euros. More information here.
BY FERRY: There are several ferry services operating between the islands multiple times daily. The journey takes 30-40 minutes and costs about 11 euros. The main operators are Aremiti, Terevau, and VAEARA’I, all with similar pricing. For example, a trip with Terevau from Papeete to Moorea costs around 1,350 XPF, or approximately 11 euros. Bringing a car costs around 5,000 XPF, or about 50 euros, depending on the car size. More information here.
Most islands lack public transportation (except for Tahiti). On Moorea, I saw one public bus, but it was elusive, with little information available. Persistent explorers might find more by asking locals. On smaller islands, there’s no public transit; your options are boats, car rentals, or taxis.
WHALE WATCHING – Seeing whales was a huge dream of mine. Humpback whales, known as gentle giants (weighing up to 40 tons!), are not only beautiful but incredibly intelligent. The best time for viewing them is July through October when humpbacks migrate to French Polynesia's waters to breed. Each year, they return here for mating, then return the following year with their young. There is something magical about them, perhaps due to their graceful strength combined with their intelligence and sensitivity; they build close relationships, sing, and communicate with each other. At the same time, they are heavily dependent on us, vulnerable to the destruction of oceans. Whale motherhood is strikingly similar to human experience—mothers care for, love, and teach their young. With luck, you may witness their impressive leaps above the water and even hear their haunting underwater songs. For me, this was the most incredible experience of my life, not just of this journey. Swimming close to a whale mother and calf, being within her gaze, was truly out of this world. It was a beautiful experience, showing how small we are compared to Earth and the underwater world, which remains so unknown.
I highly recommend Moorea Moana Tours; they are professional, and the owner has founded a shark conservation fund, which supports research and public education on marine life.
BEACHES – This island has some of the iconic white-sand beaches and turquoise waters that French Polynesia is famous for. Don’t miss the petite Plage des Tipaniers. Although it's part of a hotel, you can access it to rent a kayak. Near Tipaniers beach, you can explore the lagoon and even jump in to swim with the freely roaming sharks and rays! If you’re lucky, you might spot a turtle, too. For directions, search on Google Maps: Banc de sable raies et requins. The water is fairly shallow (about 160-170 cm). I also recommend taking a kayak trip to the small motu (islet) Tiahura to Coco Beach restaurant for lunch (make a reservation beforehand). Other public beaches include Temae—a beautiful sandy beach with clear waters ideal for snorkeling, and Ta’ahiamanu (Opunohu)—perfect for snorkeling and picnicking, with views of the bay and sailboats, as well as Tiahura—a sandy beach shaded by palm trees, also perfect for picnicking.
TREKKING AND BAYS – With its lush green jungle and dramatic mountains in the backdrop, Moorea is a paradise for trekking enthusiasts. Take a hike to Col des 3 Pinus, where you’ll get picturesque views of the mountains, Cook’s Bay, and Opunohu Bay, with boats bobbing in the bays and the Opunohu Valley. This was my first jungle experience with chickens and roosters wandering around, which was both unusual and amusing. For a more intimate experience, set out early morning to catch the sunrise from one of the viewpoints. Check out the Belvedere viewpoint and explore Moorea’s pineapple fields, known for producing the famous Rotui pineapple juice, available in every shop. The pineapple route is best traversed in a 4x4 vehicle. A morning hike to the Afareaitu waterfall is also worth planning.
DIVING COURSES – French Polynesia is one of the best places in the world for diving and snorkeling. On islands like Moorea, Bora Bora, and others, you’ll find a variety of diving courses, from beginner day classes (starting at under 100 euros—a great way to see if it’s for you) to multi-day courses that end with a PADI certification. The clear waters in Polynesia boast visibility up to 30 meters. During diving or snorkeling courses, you’ll see stunning coral reefs, underwater canyons, and even shipwrecks. Underwater, you’ll encounter turtles, dolphins, sharks, and majestic manta rays.
OVERWATER BUNGALOW – It’s not just a hotel, but an attraction in itself, offering a luxurious experience surrounded by nature. The luxury here is not only in the beautiful interior but also in the peaceful mornings, sipping coffee on the terrace while watching marine life and enjoying the colorful waters and sky. French Polynesia is famous for its overwater bungalows, which offer stunning ocean views and direct water access, allowing you to start your day with a swim or snorkeling. At the Manava Beach Resort in Moorea, mornings with the sound of waves and the first rays of sunlight were magical. The hotel also provides free snorkeling equipment.
TIKI VILLAGE – Visit the Tiki Village cultural center to experience Polynesian culture through workshops, such as traditional necklace making, cooking, and bag weaving. With a bit of luck, you might witness a traditional Polynesian wedding, complete with local dances, songs, and music. It’s a great place to learn about Polynesia’s rich history and immerse yourself in its traditions. My pro tip: behind the village, there’s a small beach where you can watch the island's most beautiful sunset.
KAYAKING – Kayak rentals are widely available on the island, and it’s definitely worth taking one out. I especially recommend the rentals at Les Tipaniers beach, where you can kayak among sharks and rays (search Google Maps: banc de sable raies et requins). Many beachfront hotels, such as NIU Hotel, also offer free kayaks for their guests.
EXCURSIONS – The island offers various activities for nature lovers, water enthusiasts, and fans of water sports. In addition to whale, turtle, and dolphin watching, you can enjoy snorkeling on coral reefs, underwater scootering, lagoon excursions, motorboat sunset trips, tours of the nearby charming motu, private romantic outings, and surfing lessons.
LUXURY: Manava Beach Resort & Spa Moorea
A stunning luxury hotel with overwater bungalows and beachfront cottages. I had the pleasure of staying in one of the overwater bungalows, which offered privacy and beautiful views of turquoise waters that transition to navy blue. The sound of the waves surrounds you, and colorful fish, turtles, rays, and even sharks swim beneath. The hotel offers free snorkeling gear and kayaks, and there's a spa for ultimate relaxation. Shops and restaurants are just a short walk away, making it an ideal spot for both relaxation and exploration.
FAMILY: Niu Beach Hotel Moorea
A charming beachfront hotel with overwater bungalows that include fully equipped kitchens and direct beach access from the terrace. Guests can enjoy free use of kayaks right outside their bungalow. With delicious breakfasts and a small, intimate setting, this hotel offers a peaceful and comfortable atmosphere. It's an ideal spot for families or couples looking for tranquility and a private escape.
BUDGET & BACKPACKERS FRIENDLY
A small family-run guesthouse with a few bedrooms, a shared kitchen, and a terrace. Some rooms have private bathrooms, while others share one. The house and rooms are spacious and clean. Ideal for those who enjoy meeting new people while cooking or enjoying coffee or beer on the terrace. It's located close to the beach and shops.
Snack Mahana RESA is a great spot to try mahi mahi fish in coconut milk, one of the best fish dishes on the island. The bar is beautifully located by the ocean, offering an outdoor terrace. It’s open from 11:00 to 15:00, so it’s recommended to visit around noon, as the kitchen might stop serving after 14:00.
Taoahere Beach House Snack is a charming small bar located by the water, offering delicious food and a very friendly, local experience. It’s a great spot to enjoy the view and taste some local flavors in a laid-back atmosphere.
Casa Vincenzo – For those looking for a break from seafood, this place serves really delicious pizza. It's a great option if you're craving something different while still enjoying the laid-back, local atmosphere.
Toatea Crêperie & Bar – A bar and creperie located in the Hilton hotel. Be sure to make a reservation. It's a great spot to visit, especially if you're not staying in an overwater bungalow. You can enjoy delicious crepes while watching sharks and rays swim right beneath your feet.
Moorea Maitai – A tiny bar next to the Manava Hotel, offering delicious fresh fish and fish burgers.
Totally!
Moorea is a raw gem of Polynesia that, beyond its white sand beaches shaded by palms and luxurious overwater bungalows, enchants visitors with wild nature, towering mountains, and lush vegetation. Green hills slope down to azure waters, dotted with small eateries and exceptional views. Besides relaxing on the beach and indulging in luxury, it’s an ideal spot for adventure, trekking, water sports, and observing ocean treasures like whales. Moorea also boasts excellent connections with Tahiti and nearby islands, making it an accessible paradise.
If you're going to French Polynesia, I sggest you definitely add Moorea to your travel list!
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